Batan island tour, Philippines

Marlboro Country
Marlboro Country , the communal ranch with beautiful views of the cliffs, rolling hills and the Pacific.

Just a bit South of the Northern confines of the Philippines lies the island of Batan. A hundred miles from Luzon, another hundred from Taiwan, facing the harsh currents, high waves and heavy winds of the Pacific Ocean together with the West Philippine Sea, the island is remote! Precisely this is the reason why this destination commands curiosity among Filipinos and people across the World.

South Eastern Batanes island , with un tethered waves of the Pacific .
South East of Batan island , with un tethered waves of the Pacific .

The island’s isolation widens Social and Cultural differences to those of other Filipino regions. Where else in the Philippines, one of the most densely populated countries in the World, can you find a shop where no one looks after the products it sells? Or, bikes without locks, even houses can be unlocked!

Honesty store

The Honesty store started as an initiative to leave a thermos with coffee as well as a Moneybox for the poor fellows arriving at port Ivana at an ungodly hour when the coffee shop is closed. The idea was successful; people were honest, paid their due in general, and gradually the shop evolved into a full-blown unattended variety store.

The Honesty Store and its unattended  payment box - South Western tip of the island
The Honesty Store and its unattended payment box – South Western tip of the island

Organic Food

Again, due to its isolation, the locals depend more on indigenous and organic produce. While food import is expensive, seafood and other local produce can be relatively cheaper than the rest of the Philippines.

Tradition food of Batanes
Ground beef, Sweet potato (Wakay) and salad, all local produce. The island produces only 10% of the rice it consumes, ground crops which are easier to manage are an excellent alternative to rice.

Fundacion Pacita, Batan island

With a breathtaking view of the Pacific and the rolling hills, “Fundacion Pacita” is geographically at the center of Batan. The Hotel restaurant promotes the art and heritage of the Ivatans through the organization’s art exhibitions for local artists, the restaurant serving organic local dishes, and the adoption of indigenous architecture — the main house has a wall plastered with limestone, reminiscent of the traditional Ivatan house. Indeed traditional Houses in Batan are made of limestone, robust enough to withstand strong winds with the benefit of keeping you fresh on a hot summer day.

Fundacion Pacita, Batanes
The primary lodging area of “Fundacion Pacita” is plastered with limestone like the traditional Ivatan houses. Arius, the rounded pine-like tree, is endemic to the island; only in Batanes can these plants bear berries. Incidentally, these berries produce a rather tasty sweet wine.

Inside the primary lodging of "fundacion Pacita",
Inside “fundacion Pacita”, with its view of the rolling hills, the lime stone cliff and the Pacific ocean.

Fundacion Pacita bedroom
A bedroom with seaside view in “Fundacion Pacita”

A traditional Ivatan house
A traditional Ivatan house

Mount Iraya and Basco

North West of the Island is a volcano called Mount Iraya; it last erupted in the 15th century, and it is located just a few miles north of Basco, the island’s capital. Judging by the way the volcano peppered Valugan beach with boulders, it is easy to imagine how destructive this volcano can be. You can ascend Mount Iraya; the local tourism office will recommend to do this with a guide; after all, it is hard to find your way through a jungle hiking path.

View of the town of Basco just a few miles south of Mouth Iraya, which is covered by clouds.

Valugan Beach , Batanes
Batan island’s Valugan Beach, with the boulders spread by an eruption of Mount Iraya more than a thousand years ago.

Valuguan Boulder Beach Batanes
Batan’s Valugan Boulder beach with the backdrop of the misty summit of Mount Iraya. Most of the beaches here are not practical for swimming because of high waves .

Batan’s Lighthouses

There are a number of lighthouses on the island, a constant reminder of the difficulty of reaching this island by boat. Incidentally, Sabtang a few miles South of Batan island, should not be missed, unless you get dizzy with boats on what could sometimes be a rough sea. Sabtang has a bigger share of traditional Ivatan houses than Batan.

Basco Lighthouse, Batanes
Basco Lighthouse

Tayid Lighthouse, Batanes
Tayid Lighthouse is an unused lighthouse. There is also another one further south, aptly called Sabtang Lighthouse as it is facing Sabtang just across the Straight

The Marlboro country

Batan’s Marlboro country is a regular stop for tours around the island; it is on a communal ranch and arguably the most spectacular views of the rolling hills and cliffs. The tour-operators often organize lunch at this place.

Marlboro country view
Marlboro country view

Lunch at Marlboro country

Map of Batan island

Getting There

Just before the Covid-19 lockdown there were direct flights from Manila(MNL) to Basco(BSO) . Companies such as Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific, and Skyjet serve the island. There are also flights from Clark (CRK). These airline companies would suggest that you reserve accommodation before booking a flight as an accommodation booking could be difficult at times.

Batan island has an area of 219 square kilometers with one main coastal road that goes around the island. Renting a motorcycle or a car can be practical. Otherwise, local guides organize a tour of the islands with a visit to the places mentioned in this write-up.

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