Exploring Central Restaurant’s Mundo en Desnivel: A Journey Through Peru’s Landscapes and Flavors

My journey to Central Restaurant was as unexpected as it was unforgettable. After casually placing myself on a waiting list for a coveted 7 p.m. Saturday reservation, I was astonished to receive confirmation for a 1:15 p.m. seating instead. The timing and the opportunity were almost serendipitous—be careful what you wish for, I thought, because here I was, faced with the world’s top restaurant experience, and all the grandeur (and price tag) that accompanies such an accolade. As someone who doesn’t get to Lima often, I seized this chance to explore what is widely recognized as the best dining experience on the planet.

In 2023, Central was named the world’s best restaurant by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. This recognition isn’t just about food—it’s about a unique journey through Peru’s astonishing altitudes, ecosystems, and culinary heritage. With no Michelin stars awarded in Peru, Central’s Michelin-quality distinction is significant. Every course on the Mundo en Desnivel tasting menu reflects the meticulous artistry and local reverence of a 3-star experience, all without the star. Chef Virgilio Martínez and his team have crafted a menu that rivals the world’s best by celebrating the essence of Peruvian landscapes and ingredients.

Entering Mundo en Desnivel: A Culinary Map of Peru

The Mundo en Desnivel menu is an exploration of Peru’s biodiversity, with each course representing a specific altitude, from below sea level to the high Andes. Every dish is a story of its own—an homage to Peru’s coasts, jungles, and mountains, told through carefully chosen ingredients and presentations that mimic the landscapes they’re sourced from. Here’s a look at the highlights of this exceptional menu.

Rocas Negras – 10 Meters Below Sea Level

We began at the edge of the Pacific Ocean with Rocas Negras, a course set at 10 meters below sea level. This dish brought together Sargazo (seaweed), Almejas (clams), and Calamar (squid) in a stunning display. The algae, sponge-like and sour, offered a refreshing tang that danced with the briny flavors of shellfish, grounding us in the essence of the ocean. The presentation was simple yet profound, capturing the rugged beauty of Peru’s coast.

Valle Seco – 900 Meters Above Sea Level

The journey continued inland with Valle Seco, inspired by the coastal deserts at 900 meters. Here, Camarón (shrimp), Loche (Peruvian squash), and Palta (avocado) were artfully combined. The Loche left a remarkable impression; its smoky, earthy flavor hinted at ash-like flavors that I’d later find in other courses, creating a cohesive thread. This dish, in vibrant shades of yellow and green, captured the arid beauty of the Peruvian desert, while the flavors provided a grounded, earthy contrast to the fresh seafood of the previous course.

Sabana Amazónica – 380 Meters Above Sea Level

From the desert, we transitioned to the lush Amazon rainforest with Sabana Amazónica, featuring Aguaje, Doncella (a river fish), and Hibiscus. The vibrant presentation, with bursts of red and green, was visually arresting—a true reflection of the Amazon’s richness. The flavors were as bold as the colors, with the floral hibiscus adding a subtle brightness that echoed the diversity of the jungle. This course was one of my favorites, as it brought the Amazon to life on the plate, with flavors that were at once earthy, fresh, and complex.

Extrema Altura – 4,200 Meters Above Sea Level

Then came Extrema Altura, a stark shift to the high Andes at 4,200 meters. This course, with Maíces (corn), Kiwicha, and Kunuka, celebrated the resilience of crops that thrive in high-altitude conditions. The flavors were deep and earthy, grounding us in the altitude. Presented with rustic simplicity, this dish reflected the rugged beauty and resilience of the Andes. The smoky notes of the corn and the earthiness of Kiwicha felt like an ancient connection to the land.

Corriente Cálida – 15 Meters Below Sea Level

We returned to the coast with Corriente Cálida, inspired by Peru’s warm coastal waters, at 15 meters below sea level. Featuring Mero (grouper), Navaja (razor clam), and Vongole (clam), this dish brought back the comforting warmth of the sea. The presentation mirrored gentle ocean waves, and each bite carried a soothing briny flavor, wrapping me in the essence of the Pacific. The balance between warmth and saltiness contrasted beautifully with the preceding Andean dish.

Selva Conexión – 148 Meters Above Sea Level

The Amazon’s depth and complexity came alive again in Selva Conexión, a dish set at 148 meters above sea level. With Cecina (smoked meat), Paiche (giant river fish), and Yuca, the smoky flavors echoed the richness of the rainforest. Rustic and earthy, this dish connected the senses to the Amazonian forest. It was a reminder of the raw power of nature, beautifully presented in a blend of woodsy aromas and smoky undertones.

Suelo Pacífico – 0 Meters Above Sea Level

Transitioning to sea level, Suelo Pacífico celebrated Peru’s coastal landscape with Conchas (shellfish), Yuyo (seaweed), and Pepino (cucumber). Light and refreshing, this course reflected the purity of the Pacific. The briny and crisp flavors transported me to the shore, with simplicity that allowed the ingredients to shine. It was a moment of calm, like the ocean at dawn.

Cerebro de Mar – 5 Meters Below Sea Level

The underwater exploration continued with Cerebro de Mar, set at 5 meters below sea level. Featuring Pulpo (octopus), Lechuga de Mar (sea lettuce), and Codium (green algae), this course brought together umami-rich elements in a Japanese-inspired presentation. The colors and textures mimicked coral reefs, and the flavors were subtly complex, reflecting the mysteries of the ocean.

Aguas de Amazonia – 180 Meters Above Sea Level

In the Amazon once more, Aguas de Amazonia offered a taste of river and forest with Pacu (freshwater fish), Nuez de Madre de Dios (Amazonian nut), and Vaca (beef). The presentation was earthy, capturing the wildness of the Amazon. This dish brought the jungle’s richness to life, with the nutty and slightly smoky flavors adding an unexpected dimension. A standout, Aguas de Amazonia felt like tasting the very soul of the rainforest.

Bosque Andino – 2,700 Meters Above Sea Level

High up in the Andean forests, Bosque Andino featured Papada de Cerdo (pork jowl), Oca (Andean tuber), and Cayampa (mushroom). The ingredients, rich and earthy, captured the dense forest atmosphere, while the pork’s umami paired beautifully with the tuber’s starchiness. This course was a comforting taste of the Andes, where each element felt rooted in the land.

Valle Sagrado – 2,800 Meters Above Sea Level

Valle Sagrado introduced me to Chirimoya, Cedrón, and Maca Negra at 2,800 meters. Chirimoya was a delightful discovery, reminiscent of tropical flavors but unique in its own right. Its creamy, fragrant taste quickly became a favorite, standing out against the herbal notes of Cedrón. This dessert had a lightness that felt like a breath of fresh mountain air.

Mil Moray – 3,600 Meters Above Sea Level

The Andes continued to inspire in Mil Moray, a dessert that combined Kabuya, Munya, and Yacon. This dish was as visually stunning as it was flavorful, presented in a nest of fresh greens. It represented the balance between the cultivated and wild, showcasing Andean ingredients in a vibrant and fresh composition.

Cacao Chuncho – 1,800 Meters Above Sea Level

The final dessert, Cacao Chuncho, was a fitting tribute to Peru’s role as a cacao producer. Featuring Mucilago, Semillas, and Cáscara, this course celebrated cacao in its purest form. The rich, earthy flavors captured the essence of chocolate, and each component was presented to highlight the complexity and depth of cacao. A memorable way to end the meal.

The MATER Experience: Preserving Peruvian Heritage

Central’s commitment to Peru extends beyond the plate through its MATER initiative. This research center gathers and preserves knowledge about Peru’s biodiversity, collaborating with local communities and researchers. Every dish at Central is a product of this research, making Mundo en Desnivel a deeply authentic culinary journey rooted in environmental and cultural heritage.

Reflections on Central: Michelin-Quality Without the Stars

Central may not hold a Michelin star, but it surpasses the quality of many 3-star establishments. The 2023 designation as the world’s best restaurant only solidifies its position as a leader in the culinary world. Dining at Central is more than a meal; it’s an experience that captures Peru’s landscapes